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Estimating Construction Costs for Residential Projects

One of the First Questions-

When I first meet with clients and start to discuss the ideas they have for the design of their new home or an addition and/or remodel of their existing home, it of course does not take more than just a few minutes before the questions about the cost of construction start to come out. The first thing to keep in mind is that every client is on a budget, some kind of budget. And most people, regardless of their budget, want to know how they can get the most for their money.

Allow for Contingencies-

So, I will start by saying, though I have seen that most people will pay it no mind- When you figure the rough cost of construction from a preliminary design, add at least 10-15% to cover things you havent thought of and/or the inevitable upgrades you will make

during the course of construction. Once you are hip-deep in the project it is, I have seen time and time again, just human nature to think, "Well, were only doing this once, lets go ahead and splurge on the__________." Insert you favorite expensive finish materials, commercial grade appliances, fancy Jacuzzi tubs, etc. here. If you then have a figure you think you cant afford, scale back the scope of the project and refigure the cost until you get something you are comfortable with. Okay, I did my duty on that, though I know you will likely forget all about it.

 

Estimates Only as Good as the Plans-

Any means of figuring the cost to construct a project, is only as good as the level of detail in your plans. Obviously you want to have some idea of costs before you get too carried away with your design, but just keep in mind that the less detail you have in your plan, the less accurate your estimate may be. So it is best to move back and forth between the design and cost figures as you move into more and more detail in your plans. So at first, you will only be able to obtain a very rough guess.

First of all, about the only way to get a rough cost when you only have a very basic design with some preliminary drawings, is to multiply the floor area (at this point all floors, and include decks, covered patios, etc.) of either the new house or the addition/remodel project in square feet and multiply it by a given cost-per-square-foot figure. Currently, I would use a multiplier of somewhere between $150 to $300 per square foot. Quite a big range, I know, but that is just to get us started, and many high-end projects will run $400 per square foot and up as well. There are ways in which you can narrow that range down a bit as you move along through your design process.

 

Remodel Costs vs. New Construction-

Also, with an addition and/or remodel project, keep in mind that the cost to remodel a certain area of a house (meaning removing everything down to the studs to re-wire, re-plumb, re-configure interior walls, ,etc.) is about the same as adding new square footage. I know that may seem counter-intuitive to some people but it is true, and commonly accepted among contractors. You have to figure the time spent in demolition, and all the often tricky little details to tie-in any new or re-configured areas properly to the existing will cancel out whatever savings you might have by having all the rough-framing, etc. already in place. Thats just the way it is.

Narrowing Things Down-

So, to start narrowing down that $150-$300 multiplier, you can think of it like this-

First, most of the costs in the higher end range are in the finishes- cabinets, windows, doors, flooring, counter-tops, plumbing fixtures, light fixtures, etc. To stay in the lower end range, you have to get creative with these finish type items.  Shop around for items you can get locally or that are manufactured in large quantities out of inexpensive materials. With the advent of the internet, and also help from local suppliers, it is not hard to find out about the price ranges for all of these finish types of items. And there are new materials and fixtures coming out all the time, so shop a lot. If you really want the granite counter-tops and Viking ranges, etc., youll have to figure in the higher range.

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